Posts Tagged ‘pizza goon pizza blog’

Morel and Parmesan Water Poached Chicken Pizza

 

Right after describing this pizza to my wife, she said “John, did you know that there are different levels of madness?” Like a good husband, I totally ignored the comment and proceeded to do the unthinkable and dumped a cup of the best aged Parmigiano Reggiano into boiling water. That’s how this all started.

                                                  

  Last weekend, I was approached by one of the guys from the ‘Morel Mafia’ who stopped by my stall at the Athens Farmers Market and sold me some really great looking morel mushrooms. It was then I knew that spring was in full swing. As I looked throught the mass of market shoppers, I saw that Margie Shew had some great looking fresh watercress that she grows at Shews Orchard at this time of the year and the rusted cogs in my pizza brain started clicking away. This pizza was gonna rock the same way spring rocks!

I love watercress and chicken so I got a few thighs together, a nice brick of Parmigiano Reggiano, the morels, garlic, lemon and some nice Bulgarian Kashkaval cheese and went to work. Oh, I love caraway seeds with morels, it’s one of those combo’s like mango and lime or cauliflower and gruyere or eggplant and mint or…don’t get me started.

But first, the Parmesan water:

This liquid is the rendered liquid essence of pure Parmigiano! I’ve used it as a sauce, a seaweed and shiitake soup by adding dashi broth, or by adding tomato water it makes a fabulous summertime chilled gazpacho broth.

Two cups water

One cup grated or chopped Parmigiano Reggiano (don’t substitute for the real stuff)

                       

Bring the water to a boil and while it at a rolling boil add the cheese. Turn all heat off and stir with a whisk for 10 minutes until cooled down. Add to a glass bowl and cover when cool enough. Store in the refrigerator for two days.

                        

After two days in the fridge, three levels will have formed in the bowl. The heavy milk solids will have fallen to the bottom, the light cream will have congealed on the top and in the middle will be a foggy water. Using a spoon and a deft hand, gently scrape the hardened cream off the top and reserve for later.

                                                       

 Pour the water through a strainer, (for this recipe, I only strained through a regular wire strainer.) The solids can be used for grating in ricotta or as chips or even in breads.

For the Chicken:

 

                                                

Skin and debone the chicken leg carefully. Cut the sinew out without compromising the integrity of the meat. Rememeber you need a single piece of meat. This may be hard to do because thier usually a small muscled chunk that is not connected well. (The next anatomist or chicken I encounter, I’ll ask them.)

                 

Take each leg meat and lay on plastic wrap. Put another piece on top and pound the crap out of it. I lost my meat mallet (probably in the sand box) so I had to use a rolling pin then the bottom of a heavy pan. Once pounded measure a 1 inch cutter height and cut the leg meat. Spray the cutter with oil and wrap the chicken around the cutter. I was tempted to use some meat glue but the twine worked just fine.

                          

Take the round of leg meat and heat the parmesan water in a small sauce pan. Once the water comes to a boil insert the chicken. Cook for three to five minutes. It will cook fast because of the metal conduction and the hole. I found that if you tilt the pan and don’t spill the parmesan water (like I did,) the chicken will be more evenly cooked like above. Once the chicken is done, place in a covered container and refrigerate.

For the morel and sauce prep:

Two tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Five to seven fresh morel mushrooms

Juice from one half of a lemon

One tablespoon caraway seeds

One half cup chicken stock

                   

Place the morels in cool water and let sit under the water for at least 15 minutes. (NOTE) Some gregarious morel eaters use salted water but if you do this, you will kill the spores floating around in the water with the small bugs and crap that uses the morel as a New York apartment complex. Take the morels out and place on paper towels. SAVE THE WATER AND THROW AROUND A TREE IN YOUR YARD, THE SPORES HAVE A WAY OF RE-APPEARING EVERY YEAR!

                          

Place the extra virgin olive oil in a pan under medium heat with caraway seeds and saute for five minutes. Add  chicken stock to pan and bring to a boil. Turn heat off. Add morels for ten seconds on each side. You are not cooking the mushrooms, just a quick poach that’s all. Take them out and reserve for later. 

                               

Add two tablespoons of the parmesan cream from the top of the parm-water to the caraway stock. Reduce till it coats back of spoon.

                                                                                 

Cut chives and add to the cooled sauce.  

 

For the pizza:

Pre-heat oven to 500 degrees without burning your house down.

Bang out a seven ounce dough ball from the Easy Dough Recipe on this blog to a 10-11 inch round pizza dough.

Pre-prepared caraway and chicken stock for sauce (above)

One cup Bulgarian Kashkaval cheese cut or shredded

Five pre-prepared chicken and morel rings

One bunch local watercress

                             

Place sauce on pizza dough. Cut or tear about 1 cup of Kashkaval cheese and place on pizza. stuff the chicken rings with the morels and place on a piece of foil on a cookie sheet pour any extra parmesan water or drippings on the chicken. Place cheesed pizza in the oven. Wait for 6 minutes then put chicken and morels in the oven. Cook pizza for a total 12 to 15 minutes until golden brown. The chicken should be warmed up enough after eight to 10 minutes. (If you are worried about the chicken, it should be at an internal temp of 165.)

                                      

 

 

 

 

 

Domenico Crolla’s Chanterelle Pizza (Part II)

Now that I have the chanterelles, I have decided to contact an award winning pizza expert to design a pizza for me. My expert in question is Domenico Crolla, one of the greatest Italian specialists in the world. Domenico’s resume reads like the stories of restauranteurs of old-born into a restaurant family. He worked his way up and found his success through determination, smart business sense and a fundamental principle that great food is the best that life has to offer.

Without sounding like a kiss ass, I can truly say that Domenico has gained an international reputation as the best of the best because of his dogged pursuit of excellence through simplicity. This is the reason he has also come out a champion in many culinary arenas such as Italian Chef Wars and the International Pizza Challenge.

Chef Crolla has recieved many awards. Above with his daughter and right,with Gena, his wife and partner.

“So,” you’re saying to yourself, “Big deal, you called a guy in Italy to design a pizza…” No, I contacted a guy in Scotland! Yes, Domenico owns and operates, with his wife Gena, two of the most successful restuarants in the UK: Bella Napoli and Pizza Corture.

Domenico has recieved the United Kingdom Gold Award for pizza in 2007 and 2008 and for Italian Best Restaurant in 2007 and 2008. He is the head judge for the Pizza Expo, the largest pizza convention and competition in the world and (get this) has won THRICE (that’s 3 times) as Pizza Designer of the Year for the UK, in 2006, 2008, and 2009.

My first reccolection of Chef Domenico Crolla was at the Pizza Festiva at the International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas, Nevada in 2008. The four finalists included me and my pesto chicken pizza. One of the other contestants, a long-time restuaranteur, motioned me over to the curtain separating the judging area from the prep area.

“Hey John, see that guy?” He asked, pointing at Chef Crolla.

“Yeah.”

“Watch out for him. I know he’s the judge who screwed me out of the finals.”

“Why?” I asked.

“He kept up with all these incessant questions. Like ‘How old is your dough?’ and ‘What kind of tomatoes did you put into your sauce?’ and ‘What kind of pre-ferment is in your crust?'” The guy paused and let out a breath. “I didn’t know what to say, I just froze. What the !$#*@*% is a pre-ferment anyway? All I’m saying is look out for him, he’s trouble.”

“So, was he mean to you?” I asked.

“No, he was pretty cool, said that my pizza looked real good.” The contestant said.

“So what makes you think he voted you off?” I asked again, feeling like a detective now.

“That damn accent dude. He sounds like Sean Connery, damned unnerving when you’re trying to present a pie!”

That year I was introduced to Domenico Crolla’s cultured inquisitiveness. He does sound like the original 007, and it did feel like he was pointing a loaded Walther PPK at my crotch when I got up to the judges’ table. But as soon as I heard his questions, I knew he’s getting to the heart of the matter: great pizza!

Now, hold on. You think I’m a sicko for putting paw-paws on pizza? Dominico holds the world record for the most expensive pizza in the world.. Just a measly $4200. It’s a little ditty with lobster marinated in Cognac, champagne-soaked caviar and 24-carat gold shavings. Here it is:

Well, enough about Domenico Crolla. Let’s get to the heart of his recipe and those beautiful chanterelles. He sent me this recipe and I really hope I don’t screw it up.

Use one dough ball from the Easy Dough Recipe on this blog. Preheat the oven to 475 degrees and put an upturned cookie tray or your favorite pizza stone in to pre-heat.

For the mushrooms:

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 cup chanterelle mushrooms cut vertically down the center. (larger ones can be vertically center-cut in quarters)

1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot

1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic

1/2 cup white wine

1/2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

Heat the olive oil in a saute pan over medium high heat. When hot, place the chanterelles in the pan and saute for 2 minutes. Add the shallots and stir. Saute for another minute. Add the garlic and saute for an additional minute. Add wine and reduce for 2-3 minutes until almost all liquid is gone. Turn off the heat and add the chopped parsley

For the Pizza:

2 Bosc pears, sliced thinly on a mandoline or by hand

3/4 cup Bel Paese cheese or creamy cheese like soft havarti (Bel Paese is best)

Shaved Parmesano Reggiano

Reserved sauteed chanterelles

Form the 7-ounce dough ball into a pizza following the instructions in the easy dough method. Place it on parchment paper. Add the cheese. Place the pear around the pizza in a fan on top of the cheese. Place the sauteed mushrooms on the pears. Sprinkle some shaved Parmesan on top.

Place in preheated oven for 10-14 minutes, until the crust is golden brown. This pie was fabulous. Thanks Domenico!