Posts Tagged ‘Gutekanst’

My Winning Schiacciata con Maiale di Latte

My winning schiacciata. My friend Brad Rocco, a pizza maker from Gahanna, Ohio, also won third place in the Traditional category.

I was very lucky to have a winning pizza this year in the non-traditional pizza competition at the International Pizza Expo.  I placed First in the Midwest, then advanced to Third in the World. The judges chose me as one of the top pizza makers, and I was proud to have some of the best pizza professionals in the world taste and judge my creation.

And to think it all started with a text from my wife: “John, there is a small DEAD PIG in a box at the front door…?”

My pig had arrived. I wanted to get a locally obtained “mini-maiale,” but the pig farmers around here would only bring me live ones to dispatch. Thinking that this activity would not bode well with my kids’ emotional stability in the future, I ordered a dead one from the Internet.

My Schiacciata con Maiale di Latte, or roast suckling pig on a long, thick pizza was a great learning experience. It was a long process to butcher and cook this pig. I made it all the more complicated by cooking the pork legs (hams), belly (pancetta and bacon) and cheek (guanciale) by sous vide. This entailed cooking a vacuum-sealed bag of the meat along with herbs, garlic — and in the case of the belly and hams, salt — in a long, slow water bath at 146 degrees until the meat was ultra tender.

But first I had to butcher Charlotte…I mean the pig. Let’s hope I don’t butcher this attempt. If you are squeamish, or have kids around, don’t watch this video on how your pork chops get into those slick flat plastic trays. If you are a professional butcher, this will have you rolling around in painful laughter.

After breaking down this pig, I took the shoulder, rack and loin and roasted them alla Sardinia, where they slow roast the suckling pig (porcheddu) over oak coals covered with myrtle. I used rosemary, bay and an oak plank on my gas grill fitted with a rottiserie. I added a beautiful chunk of smoky wild boar bacon to lard the meat with, a great choice as this crisped the skin up beautifully.

For the legs, I wanted to mimick the wonderful salty goodness of a Virginia ham. I coated the hams in sea salt, garlic and rosemary, sealed them and set them in water at 146 degrees for 4 hours. I did the cheek and belly the same way, but for only an hour, because they were thinner than the ham.

Now I needed some advice on cheese for this large pizza, so who else could I call but my friend Matt Rapposelli, the Executive Chef at Ohio University. He recommended Cacao di Roma and pecorino. (Great call, Matt.) I had always heard that Bellweather Farms in Sonoma had fabulous sheep’s milk ricotta, so I contacted them, and the owner, Liam Callahan made some for me. Whatta great guy!

I knew I was going to make a great pie because I had my General Manager Joel Fair with me. This guy makes hundreds of pizzas each day and is the perfect sous chef. He stuffed some sweet pepper ends with Pecorino Tuscano with chili pepper flakes, for the top of the pizza.

Two great guys, Matt Rapposelli, Executive Chef of Ohio University and Joel Fair, General Manager of Avalanche Pizza. I met lots of really cool people at the Pizza Expo in Las Vegas, like Michael Della Monica and his wife, from Long Island Style Pizzeria. Their shamrock pizza was perfect for a St. Patrick’s Day.

Now I had to choose a perfect vegetable to pair with the pork. I decided on Peperoni Mandorloti from the Basilicata region of Italy. Roasted sweet bell peppers are sauteed with vinegar, sugar, almonds and raisins. I also used a little French roasted almond oil for effect.

 

Brining and Curing Anchovies for Pizza Metro il “Gilda”

I’ve been to Italy 6 times in my life and have never experienced the kind of friendship, comfort and down-home hospitality as in Holiday House Gilda in Positano. Giuseppe, Gilda, Daniella and Rosa are amazing in the way they welcome you and see to your every need as you relax at this cliffside slice of paradise.

I have this small thought that they must be terribly annoyed by us, the spastic small business owner pizza freaks, constantly talking about the pizza that is gonna win the World Pizza Championships and take the world by storm in Salsomaggiore, Italy.

Today, I’ll finish preping for a marinated anchovy pizza with asparagus, mozzarella, Parmesan and fresh cherry tomatoes finished with chopped roasted almonds. I tell Giuseppe and Gilda my goal of destroying all competitors at the pizza competition and after several minutes of giggling, they said they are happy to help.

Eating my way though Positano with fellow American restaurant owners Mike, Bruno and Tom.

Yesterday, I blasted the whole mountainside with the fatty-sweet smell of sauteed guanciale (pork jowl) that I sweated in the kitchen in my room. (You have to cook this stuff or your pizza will be way too greasy.) I heard Gilda talking and instantly thought she was mad at the amount of pork smell this process produced. As she entered my room, and I turned into the 5 year-old I really am inside, she smiled, and asked for a bite. “Beautiful” she said, and walked out. What a class act!

My three great friends who helped me time and time again; Bruno, Rosa and Mike .

Bruno went to Naples and got owners of famous pizza places to let him throw pizzas. Today he went to Trianon, one of the oldest and respected pizzerias in the world. (pictures to follow). I stayed with Giuseppe today foraging for fresh veggies, then descended the steps to the secluded beach for a cold swim.

Last night, Bruno, our travelling companions Mike and Tom, and I made 2 bigas. A biga is a pre-fermented dough we add to another batch of dough to make the final product more digestable, taste better and perform better in any pizza compeitition. Bruno’s looks much better.

Right now, check out how Giuseppe and Gilda showed me the right way to brine and cure fresh anchovy. These are the freshest anchovies I’ve ever encountered and are a totally different taste than the flattened, salted fish-leather we are all used to in the States.

Now, here’s the goon totally screwing it up. (What a know-it-all.)

After the overnight cure of salt, vinegar and lemon juice, Giuseppe rinses the fish twice and pats them dry. He adds them to a marinade of salt, extra virgin olive oil (crushed from the trees outside our window), small thin slices of garlic, and peperoncini (hanging on the wall after being grown from the garden outside).

After a double-flushing of cold water, Giuseppe drains the anchovies for a few minutes before patting dry.

Now is time for Giuseppe’s final flourish of olive oil, salt, garlic and pepper flakes.

Tomorrow we leave for the 8-hour trip to Salsomaggiore. After covering Rome for a day and staying down south here in Positano, it will be nice to “Get to it”. Earlier today, we went to a grocery store in Sorrento. As we walked in, Bruno pointed at me and exclaimed very loudly, John, the compeition starts NOW!” Then he ran to the back of the store. You could have heard a pin drop as I stood there, trying to  find the things I needed through the stares of the locals. Bruno was right. This was gonna be a tough competition.

See you in Salso.