Posts Tagged ‘garlic’

Spanish Chorizo and Manchego Pizza

As the snow falls again in my backyard, I taste small slices from two kinds of Spanish chorizo and look out the window at those damned starlings eating all the good bird food. I hate those nasty birds. They are the bullies of the bird world. I then realize that I’ve hated chorizo most of my adult life, until just nine months ago.

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Before leaving to get some Black Cat bottlerockets to scare those damned greasy birds away, I concentrate on the flavors. The longer chorizo is mellower than the… er…shorter-looking one. Both of these pork sausages are packed with big chunks of delicious pork fat and roughly cut meat. The Spanish paprika imparts a smoky, yet not overpowering spice to it, not hot at all.

The chorizo of my past was way too spicy and gave me heartburn. Little did I know that I was probably eating low-end American- or Mexican- made sausages passing themselves off as authentic chorizo.This chorizo, however, is so fully flavored with garlic, smoke and paprika that I am softening my stance and considering giving those gutter birds a reprieve.

I intend to pair this chorizo with aged Spanish Manchego made from sheeps’ milk from the La Mancia region. It is slightly salty and and has an almost cheddar-asiago taste like a toned-down, hard feta. It will stand up well to the chorizo, which will melt on the pizza, i.e. large globs of beautiful fat and paprika will run along the melted Manchego like gorgeous red lakes. Adding some sweet sauteed yellow onion, roasted red peppers and fresh cilantro would round this bodacious pie up nicely.

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I have Lucy to thank for my new-found love of chorizo. Lucy had just come back from a long stay in Spain and she wanted to get back on her feet. I offered her a job because she had been an awesome employee at Avalanche in the past. During her first week back, she handed me a baggy with what looked like 3-inch dog poop in it.

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“What’s this?” I asked.

“Illegal Spanish chorizo,” she said, looking around for government spies. (I am not using her real name, since it was unlawful for her to smuggle the chorizo into the country.)

I tried a little piece and gave the three guys working that morning a slice also. The red, dry-aged sausage was so flavorful and not at all spicy, like I had envisioned. I cut another slice, and another, another and another until it was gone. The smokiness staying with me in the back of my throat. It ranked with the best sausage I’ve ever eaten.

Now I’ve found a place in Columbus that sells both types of real Spanish chorizo: the long rope, which is a little mellower, and the small sausage version (okay yes, the one that looks like dog poop!) This is not the all-too-spicy Mexican chorizo that flavors soups and stews, but the mellow, smoky, chorizo with big chunks of fat that act as flavor nuggets to your soul.

“With this, I will make the best pizza ever!” I exclaimed like Napolean, while standing at the check-out counter (as the teller secretly put her finger on the silent alarm button).Well, here it is, a great pizza. Tell me how you like it.


1 recipe Easy Dough (freeze the second dough ball if you are not making 2 pizza)

1 small yellow onion, sliced in half then across the grain

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 small can Hunt’s tomato sauce

2 pinches oregano

1 teaspoon sugar

3/4 cup shredded imported Manchego cheese (don’t use a Microplane- you’ll be sorry)

1 cup sliced chorizo (for the good Spanish stuff, leave me a comment and I’ll let you know where to find it.) Cut the chorizo on the bias, (not in coins but on the diagonal, as shown below)

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1 small roasted red pepper (See recipe in Toro, Sweet Bell Pepper Pizza. Take the whole pepper, after steaming and de-seeding, and set on a cutting board for topping prep)

A couple of sprigs of fresh cilantro

Preheat an upturned heavy cookie sheet on the middle deck in a 450 degree oven.

Place the onion in a small saute pan with the olive oil, and saute on medium-high for 4 minutes until just softened.

To make the sauce, combine the tomato sauce, oregano and sugar  in a small bowl. Taste and add more sugar if desired.

Bang the dough out into a 10- to 11-inch round as indicated in the Easy Dough Recipe. Place on parchment paper.

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Put  3 to 4 tablespoons of the sauce on the dough.

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Spread the sauteed onions, then the grated Manchego cheese on the sauce.

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Place the chorizo atop the cheese.

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Julienne the roasted red peppers and place on the chorizo.

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Slide the pizza, still on the parchment paper, onto the hot upturned cookie sheet in the oven. Bake for 10 to 13 minutes or until the crust is golden brown and crisp when you run a spatula under the pizza. Top with the sprigs of cilantro and serve.

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Eat it like the ravenous dog that you are, and don’t worry about those damned starlings or the snow.

Bruno’s Famous Clam Pizza

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I first met Bruno di Fabio in Columbus in 2004 when I was competing for the North American Pizza Pizzaz competition. He was making his pizza next to me and they had just called my name to go to the ovens. Our introduction began with a compliment.

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Bruno di Fabio with his award-winning Pizza al Taglio at the 2009 World Pizza Championships in Salsomaggiore Italy where he won Best Pizza In the U.S.A. 2009

“Nice pie,” he said in his unmistakable New York accent, just as I had lifted the pizza up on the peel.

“Thanks, dude.” I said looking at his. “Yours looks great too.” (I was lying, I didn’t care what his pizza looked like, he was my competition and I wouldn’t have cared if he fell over dead, his head careening into his sauce bowl and his cheese flying everywhere.)

“Thank you sir, and good luck. Just one thing…”

“What?” I stopped because he looked concerned.

“Oh, nothing.” Bruno shook his head, like he was fighting with himself to tell me something important. “I know something you can do to that pizza that will save you some time and might help you.”

“Really?” I put the pizza back down on the table and stared at it. “What?”

“See that can?” He pointed to a big garbage can.

“Yeah.”

“If you throw that piece of crap in there now and you won’t have to go through the humiliation of losing to me.”

It was my first immersion in the Bruno di Fabio laugh. An uncontrollable high-pitched nasal guffaw reverberated throughout the convention hall, loud enough to turn heads as far away as 50 yards. His face turned red as he slapped me and choked out in a high voice, “J…j…just jokin’ wit ya man. Hee, hee, hee. It looks great!”

More laughs followed as Bruno gasped for air, unable to contain his hysterical joy. I smiled and muttered, “Dick” under my breath as I walked to the ovens with my pie. But when I looked over my shoulder , I couldn’t help smiling broadly as I saw Bruno doubled over in laugh-pain.

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Bruno with another winning pizza in 2009, and on the stage with his gold medal and Ms. Italy for “Fastest Pizza Maker in the World,” 2007

I didn’t win that year, but I made a friend. Bruno’s one of those guys who has always been there when I needed help, especially at the World Pizza Championships in Italy. He has helped me sneak into Italian kitchens to prep, translated for me, bribed chefs, and has been my prep slave-sous chef and driver on tough foraging expeditions through the Italian countryside.

Bruno has proven that he would give me the shirt off his back, but he has never given me this damn clam pizza recipe. For two years, I’ve been bugging him. Every time I ask for it, he rolls his eyes and denies me.

My clam pizza obsession began at the World Pizza Championships in 2007. Both Bruno and I were staying with our team The World Pizza Champions at the sprawling Grand Hotel Astro Terme in Salsomaggiore Italy. The hotel, perched atop a green finger ridge, looks down on a steep valley filled with Gelato shops and a few bars.

One night, after a trip to the coast to get clams, Bruno hurried to the kitchen and made the most delicious clam topping that I’ve ever eaten. The next day he entered it as his Pizza Classico. He scored very high but didn’t win. Luckily, he won “Fastest Pizza Maker in the World” the next day.

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Bruno volunteered to be my sous chef and helped me  plate (L) and cut fresh pasta (R) in the finals of the Heinz Beck Competiton in Italy

I texted Bruno the other day and finally, the day is here. I got him to spill the beans…or the clams, so to speak. After he gave me the recipe, I drove for 3 hours to obtain some fresh littlenecks.

Here it is. Bruno di Fabio’s famous clam pie. I only had about 13 Littleneck clams so I had to add chopped canned clams. If you double the fresh clams in this recipe, it doubles the clam flavor.

One Easy Dough Recipe

3 tablespoons clam juice

12 or 13 Littleneck clams

1 tablespoon olive oil for the sauce and 1 teaspoon for brushing on the dough

1 large garlic clove, minced

1 thick sliced bacon slice, or 2 slices of Italian pancetta cut into small dice

1/4 yellow onion, chopped (makes 3 tablespoons)

3 tablespoons chopped clams (Bumble Bee is the best because they only use salt, not bad chemicals to preserve)

2 tablespoons white wine

1 can whole San Marzano tomatoes or whole California tomatoes, drained and hand torn into small pieces and left to drain again,  about 3/4 cup tomato flesh (make sure the tomatoes are not watery)

1 tablespoon grated Parmesan

1/2 cup whole milk grated mozzarella (premium quality because there are lots of bad mozzarella products on the shelves)

1 tablespoon chopped Italian flat-leaf parsley

Dust one dough ball with flour and keep it in a bowl covered with oil until the toppings are done. Preheat oven to 470 degrees with a thick upturned cookie sheet on the middle rack.

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Using a small saute pan on high heat, add the clam juice and the 13 clams. (If you have fresh clams, double the clam juice and upgrade to a larger pan.) Cover and steam for 5 to 8 minutes until all the clams have “popped.” This may take a few shakes of the pan to coax some clams open.

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Put the clams in a bowl. Place the juices in a separate bowl.

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Using the same pan under medium high heat, add 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil. Add the bacon and saute for 1-2 minutes. Add the garlic and onion. Saute for 5 minutes until the onion and garlic are translucent and the bacon is just gettting golden brown.

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Add the chopped clams, clam juice and white wine to the pan. Turn to high and reduce for 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes. Saute for 5 more minutes stirring until the sauce is not watery. Take off the heat.

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Pull the pizza dough out to form a circle according to the Easy Dough Recipe. Place on parchment paper you have laid out on the bottom of an upturned cookie sheet. Brush with the extra virgin olive oil and dust with the Parmesan cheese. Place the mozzarella on the dough.

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Place the clam topping all over the pizza and slide the pizza and parchment onto the preheated cookie sheet in the oven. Bake for 6 minutes.

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Smile for the camera and place the opened clams on the pizza. Put back in the oven and cook for 5 more minutes or until the bottom is dark golden brown and the crust is a golden brown. Serve immediately. Thanks Bruno, yer GREAT!

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