Posts Tagged ‘food writing’

Braised Leek and Potato Pizza

While working as a dining room captain at Le Ciel Bleu restuarant at the Mayfair Regent Hotel in Chicago, Illionois, the most requested soup on our menu was the vichyssoise. Its rich, creamy potato and leek combination was to die for, and with all the heavy cream the French chefs poured into the soup, it was sure to send you on your way.

I took an opportunity to replicate the savory, creamy and sharp combination these two mid-summer vegetables offer, thanks to all the great farms around this area. I’ve got  fresh leeks and Mr. Stripy tomatoes from the Chesterhill Produce Auction; organic Corolla Potatoes from Rich Organic Gardens in Shade, Ohio; locally aged, whole milk white cheddar from Athens’ Own; and fresh chrevre from Integration Acres in Albany, Ohio.

The most fun in putting this pizza together was bidding on veggies at the Chesterhill Produce Auction. It’s 28 minutes away from Athens, through the winding route 550. I drove through the wilds of Ohio, passing through Amesville (famous for its “coonskin library” where in the wild days, they traded skins for books) and into Morgan county and Chesterhill, where many Amish and other productive Ohio farmers live.

The produce auction is also a great way for these far-flung farmers to sell the fruits of their labor. It is managed by the folks at Rural Action like TomRedfern and Bob Fedyski.

The auction is a study in etiquette and aggression. The chef on your right may be a good friend but during the auction, he’s your worst enemy. He disgusts you as he eyes those baby pattypans or ripe smelling cantalopes with envy. That stuff should be yours. Needless to say, I try to limit the amount of coffee I consume and stay away from heavy metal music on the way there.

Here is a video of what the Chesterhill Produce Auction had to offer this last Monday.

Once the bidding starts, the fun begins.

The potato and leek pizza is for my lunch today so I am going simply, even though I will layer the potatoes like a Tortini di Patate, the Italian version; or the French Tourte aux Pommes de Terre. I’m starving! Let’s go.

Preheat oven to 475 degrees and put an upturned heavy cookie sheet or a really great pizza stone in there. Make the 2 dough balls in the Easy Dough Recipe and set one aside in the freezer for later.

2 medium yellow potato such as Corolla or Yukon Gold

2 tablespoons salt

2 medium leeks

1 large garlic clove

3 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 large Mr. Stripey summer tomato

1 cup aged white cheddar (preferably whole milk cheese)

1/2 a round of chevre, or 3-4 tablespoons of your favorite goat cheese

Fresh dill sprigs

Pour 2 cups water into a medium bowl and whisk in 2 tablespoons salt until it melts. Using a mandoline, shave the potato into slices thinly, but not so thin that you can read through them. They should still stand up on their own. Place them in the water and stir, making sure to separate the slices. This salt water bath will pull the starch out of the potatoes and “cook” them, leading to a crispier bake. Keep potatoes in this water for 15 minutes.

When the potatoes are limp and the water is smoky with starch, pull them out and strain. Dry the potatoes on a cloth or paper towel. Rinse out the bowl and dry it. Pour in 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil. Place the potatoes in the oil and toss with a couple turns of cracked black pepper. Set aside.

Start the leeks just after you put the potatoes in the salted water. Cut the leeks 3 inches above where the green starts. Measure to make sure they will fit the pan. Reserve the top of the leek for sauces or soups. Do not cut off the bottom of the leek, where the hairs or roots are.  They will hold the leek together. Just trim them, as shown above.(Some chefs tie the leeks so they don’t fall apart, but the presentation is not important here and they will be under the potatoes.) Wash the leeks thouroughly.

Place 3 cups of water in a pan over high heat. Add a large, crushed clove of garlic and the leeks. When the water starts to boil, turn the heat down to medium, add the butter and simmer with a lid on for 20 minutes, or until the leeks are easily penetrated with a fork. Put the leeks in the refrigerator to cool. Cut them into 1/4- inch slices and set aside.

For the tomato:

Cut the tomato in quarters. Cut out the inside, leaving the outside flesh and the skin in a “flower petal” shape. Cut lengthwise two or three times, then turn and cut into cubes. Put in a stainer and reserve.

O.K., let’s make the damn pizza!

“Bang out” (pizza industry term for making a round pie shape) the pizza dough on the counter. Place on parchment paper.

Place the cheddar and chevre on the dough. Then the leeks.

Fan the potato slices over the leeks, overlapping a quarter to a half of the one under it. This may take some time and even longer of you have a hook for one of your hands, but be patient:  the result is spectacular.

Place on the hot pizza stone or upturned pan for 12 to 14 minutes, or until the bottom is dark brown and the crust is golden brown. You may have to turn the pizza for an even bake.

When the pie is out of the oven, garnish with the tomato dice and fresh dill sprigs. Enjoy hot or cold.

Domenico Crolla’s Chanterelle Pizza (Part II)

Now that I have the chanterelles, I have decided to contact an award winning pizza expert to design a pizza for me. My expert in question is Domenico Crolla, one of the greatest Italian specialists in the world. Domenico’s resume reads like the stories of restauranteurs of old-born into a restaurant family. He worked his way up and found his success through determination, smart business sense and a fundamental principle that great food is the best that life has to offer.

Without sounding like a kiss ass, I can truly say that Domenico has gained an international reputation as the best of the best because of his dogged pursuit of excellence through simplicity. This is the reason he has also come out a champion in many culinary arenas such as Italian Chef Wars and the International Pizza Challenge.

Chef Crolla has recieved many awards. Above with his daughter and right,with Gena, his wife and partner.

“So,” you’re saying to yourself, “Big deal, you called a guy in Italy to design a pizza…” No, I contacted a guy in Scotland! Yes, Domenico owns and operates, with his wife Gena, two of the most successful restuarants in the UK: Bella Napoli and Pizza Corture.

Domenico has recieved the United Kingdom Gold Award for pizza in 2007 and 2008 and for Italian Best Restaurant in 2007 and 2008. He is the head judge for the Pizza Expo, the largest pizza convention and competition in the world and (get this) has won THRICE (that’s 3 times) as Pizza Designer of the Year for the UK, in 2006, 2008, and 2009.

My first reccolection of Chef Domenico Crolla was at the Pizza Festiva at the International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas, Nevada in 2008. The four finalists included me and my pesto chicken pizza. One of the other contestants, a long-time restuaranteur, motioned me over to the curtain separating the judging area from the prep area.

“Hey John, see that guy?” He asked, pointing at Chef Crolla.

“Yeah.”

“Watch out for him. I know he’s the judge who screwed me out of the finals.”

“Why?” I asked.

“He kept up with all these incessant questions. Like ‘How old is your dough?’ and ‘What kind of tomatoes did you put into your sauce?’ and ‘What kind of pre-ferment is in your crust?'” The guy paused and let out a breath. “I didn’t know what to say, I just froze. What the !$#*@*% is a pre-ferment anyway? All I’m saying is look out for him, he’s trouble.”

“So, was he mean to you?” I asked.

“No, he was pretty cool, said that my pizza looked real good.” The contestant said.

“So what makes you think he voted you off?” I asked again, feeling like a detective now.

“That damn accent dude. He sounds like Sean Connery, damned unnerving when you’re trying to present a pie!”

That year I was introduced to Domenico Crolla’s cultured inquisitiveness. He does sound like the original 007, and it did feel like he was pointing a loaded Walther PPK at my crotch when I got up to the judges’ table. But as soon as I heard his questions, I knew he’s getting to the heart of the matter: great pizza!

Now, hold on. You think I’m a sicko for putting paw-paws on pizza? Dominico holds the world record for the most expensive pizza in the world.. Just a measly $4200. It’s a little ditty with lobster marinated in Cognac, champagne-soaked caviar and 24-carat gold shavings. Here it is:

Well, enough about Domenico Crolla. Let’s get to the heart of his recipe and those beautiful chanterelles. He sent me this recipe and I really hope I don’t screw it up.

Use one dough ball from the Easy Dough Recipe on this blog. Preheat the oven to 475 degrees and put an upturned cookie tray or your favorite pizza stone in to pre-heat.

For the mushrooms:

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 cup chanterelle mushrooms cut vertically down the center. (larger ones can be vertically center-cut in quarters)

1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot

1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic

1/2 cup white wine

1/2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

Heat the olive oil in a saute pan over medium high heat. When hot, place the chanterelles in the pan and saute for 2 minutes. Add the shallots and stir. Saute for another minute. Add the garlic and saute for an additional minute. Add wine and reduce for 2-3 minutes until almost all liquid is gone. Turn off the heat and add the chopped parsley

For the Pizza:

2 Bosc pears, sliced thinly on a mandoline or by hand

3/4 cup Bel Paese cheese or creamy cheese like soft havarti (Bel Paese is best)

Shaved Parmesano Reggiano

Reserved sauteed chanterelles

Form the 7-ounce dough ball into a pizza following the instructions in the easy dough method. Place it on parchment paper. Add the cheese. Place the pear around the pizza in a fan on top of the cheese. Place the sauteed mushrooms on the pears. Sprinkle some shaved Parmesan on top.

Place in preheated oven for 10-14 minutes, until the crust is golden brown. This pie was fabulous. Thanks Domenico!