Posts Tagged ‘food writing’

Dem Bones

I am about to make my greatest pizza with meat from a cow’s tail and bone marrow. Like a great loaf of bread, oxtail is a labor of love that can only be perfected with patience, observation and a keen sense of mercy. That is, letting the lusciously fatty, greasy and savory strands of protein braise in juices that don’t overpower their natural flavor.

                                          

This pizza is like alot of the best pies you’ll ever make or taste: Time consuming in its preparation, simple in its bake, rewarding in its taste. Take a bite and enjoy velvety and sharp gruyere, meaty oxtail, crunchy-sweet cippolini onions and marrow, extracted from large round femur bones.

It was procuring dem bones that turned out to be the biggest challenge of this pizza. Not cooking them, but getting past cultural stigmas and nasty but (in hindsight) laughable customer service thrown at me by a jerk at the meat counter.

I had rushed to the large chain grocery store to  buy the bones.

“Excuse me sir,” I said as I craned my head over the butcher counter.

“Yup.” A young man in his 20’s tilted his head. His acting skills betrayed him total distain for the middle-aged clod before him.

“Do you have femur bones?”

“Nope.”

“Do you have any large bones?”

“Maybe.”

“Maybe like in yes, or maybe, like in no?” I asked.

“Got dog bones.”

“Are they from cows, or like rawhide?” I continued.

“Rawhide is from cows too,” he muttered triumphantly.

“Yes, I agree, but I asked for bones.”

“Rawhide bones is in isle 18.” He said and turned away.

“Hey, Excuse me,” I said, beckoning him back again. This time more forceful. I was now reenacting the same uphill battle I had weeks before when I asked the seafood guy if I could smell the fish. He refused, saying I’d have to buy it first. I finally convinced him to put it 2 feet in front of my nose. It stank.

“May I see the dog bones you have?”

“They ain’t packaged yet.” He turned to let as much air as possible separate him from me.

“Can you go back there and grab one for me and bring it here and show me?” I asked, really loud now.

                             

This is bone marrow that has been sitting in a salty brine for 2 hours and frequently refreshed. It just popped out and all the impurities and blood were pulled out by the water. This you can dredge in flour and saute if you have a light touch and don’t over cook. (It’ll turn to mush) I prefer to roast the marrow in the bone because my dog likes the bones roasted after I take the marrow.

He looked over his shoulder, shook his head and went in the back. I waited as he returned with a femur bone that had a big tapered end like a vase. It was the end of the femur, and did contain some marrow, but because the huge flared end had a thin layer of bone protecting the marrow, it would be hard to get the marrow out in one cylindrical chunk.

“O.K., this is close to what I’m looking for,” I said.  “Only do you have four or five that look more like a pipe than this one?” I asked.

“I don’t know.” He stared at me, scowling. I reverted to my mindset from years of living in Boston.

“Listen man, here’s the deal. If you help me out, I’ll stop acting like a stupid customer with a special request and go away. If you continue to be a jerk about this, I’m gonna find a manager to help me out.” I waited for an escalation, just a nuance of a negative response before completely unloading on this guy who should not be serving customers. None came.

He turned and went into the back for what seemed like 10 minutes (of course he took his time) and returned with four fairly large femur (dog) bones wrapped in plastic. As if to taunt me, all four were pipe bones but just  flared enough to be a hassle getting a chunk out. He slid the package labled “Dog Bones” onto the fancy glass case.

“Thanks for all your tremedous efforts, my kind sir,” I responded. Then I took a chance. “Do you know what I’m gonna do with these?” I asked with enough distain for him to retell our interaction to his co-workers.

He nodded, a scowling but restrained “no.”

“Eat the marrow out of them.”

“Yum.,” he muttered, with an unmistakable nuance of  “I hope you die.”

“Damn blog,” I thought. Then I turned to make my oxtail pizza.

Yesterday morning, I finally saw my doctor because of an incessant pain in my foot that had been nagging me for weeks. He uttered the term “I’ve got some bad news.” My foot had been broken for a some time,  the result of heavy usage and strain, a real stress fracture. Now I am trying to sit on my ass but will attempt the oxtail pie in the morning.

I dream of marrow seeping out of my foot as it sits in a plastic-wrapped tray marked “Dog Bones.” No biggie, just par for the course of the Pizza Goon.

Big fat Turkish Pide with Grapes and Pancetta

Don’t you just hate when bloggers apologize for not doing a post? The excuses can be endless and they usually lose me at “Sorry, but my cat…” So I’m just gonna just shut up and show you some stuff I’ve been doing instead of writing blog posts:

I made about 30 of these pides last Saturday, including the Turkish pide with grapes. Not to mention the the Nectarine/Stilton pizza (right) and the Brie Boat with pear.

Along with the Ohio University students coming back, I’ve been scrambling to accomodate my bread lovers at the Athens Farmers Market. Here are  just  some of the 300 breads, pizzas, flatbreads and other weird stuff  I did on 9-11-2010. (Take it easy on a critique of my presentation, dudes. I just finished 12 hours of baking, plus my customers were breathing down my neck.)

You’ll notice the Turkish Pide with the grapes. That’s what we are gonna make today. But first let me take you to where I got the grapes: Neil Cherry Vineyards and orchard in Crookville, Ohio where we visited last year for the Schiacciata Con L’ Uva or Tuscan Grape Harvest bread.

The skins of these heavenly grapes are thick and chewy and exude the brightest of grape flavors, along with watery flesh that explodes in your mouth. They are best described as “That’s what grapes tasted like in my youth.” Yes, these three varieties of seedless grapes have a grape quality that only local, unsprayed, real grapes have .

Here are some other grapes we are gonna use.

You may laugh at this recipe, but I don’t care. I love cumin with grapes, chevre and bacon! This baby’s got the fatty, salty pancetta (Italian cured-but not smoked-bacon), the creaminess of local Integration Acres chevre’ (creamy French Goat cheese), the sweetness of these killer grapes and the unexpected crunch of walnuts.

Let’s go.

Preheat a heavy cookie sheet placed upside-down in your oven at 475 degrees F.

Using the Easy Dough Recipe on this blog, cut a 7 ounce dough ball and freeze the other for later use. For this recipe,  use bread flour. It  has more protein iand therefore will stretch better when “tying a knot” with the dough.

3-4 slices of pancetta (bacon will do but will leach more liquid than the pancetta. I will cover that later so don’t worry.)

1 teaspoon plus 1/2 teaspoon of extra virgin olive oil

1 heaping teaspoon cumin

1 quarter cup walnuts, pounded into small tooth-like pieces

1 inch thick piece of chevre

1-2 cups of seedless grapes

1 egg for eggwash

Place the pancetta in a saute pan under medium high heat with the teaspoon of olive oil and sweat the juices. Toss well for  2-3 minutes. (If using bacon, cook longer but avoid browning it.) Add the cumin and the 1/2 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil. (If your pancetta created enough oil to soak up the cumin and still leave oil, do not add the extra oil. This will probably happen with the bacon.) Cook for 2 minutes more.

Add the walnuts and saute for only 1 minute. Set aside for the pizza.

Take the round dough ball and pull on opposite ends to form a football shape. Using you fingertips, press out into an even larger footabll shape, measuring 12 to 14 inches across. This will be your Pide base.

Place the dough on parchment, then place the pancetta, cumin, and walnuts on the dough and spread it out. Place the chevre on top in small dollops, all around the dough.

To tie the knots, start on the middle of the boat-like dough. Pull up from the middle to the end. The dough will slacken when you get to the end. Grab this dough and start spinning or twisting the dough, gabbing any slack that may make the middle of the boat fall back down. Gently pull the twisted end and tie in a knot.

Place the grapes all around the top of the pide. Some may fall off. Press down but not hard.

Crack the egg and scramble with a fork or whisk. Brush this eggwash all over the outside edges of the pide. Dab enough egg on each end knot to sink it into the folds.

Place the pide on the preheated cookie sheet  and bake for 9 to 11 minutes or until the bottom is dark brown and the top is golden brown.

Pull out and enjoy with your dining partner. Woof!