Posts Tagged ‘athens’

Best Pizza in Mid-America

Recently I was lucky enough leave my home in Athens and Avalanche Pizza Bakers to compete in the best run and most thrilling pizza competition, held at the largest pizza convention anywhere in the world: The International Pizza Challenge at the Pizza Expo, in Las Vegas. I saw all my friends from around the world, cooked world-class pizza and found and stole new ideas. I made  this spectacular schiacciata, or long pizza.

I won the title “Best Pizza in Mid-America” title with this pizza that exhibited that agra dolci (sweet and sour) taste that I love.

Schiacciata means “squashed” or “flattened” in Italian. You can find thin or thick crusts and just about everything under the sun on them in Italy. I make a tremendous amount of these pizzas at the Athens Farmers Market using local cheeses, vegetables and meats.

This long pizza consists of Maytag Blue cheese, fresh mozzarella, pancetta (Italian cured but not smoked pork belly), smoked guanciale (cured and smoked pork jowl), and roasted red peppers. I slather just enough fig jam to excite the palate and then place a peppery arugula on top. The final sweet/sour note is supplied by a drizzling of balsamic vinegar.

Guanciale and Pancetta Schiacciata

1 recipe Schiacciata dough

3  ounces sliced pancetta (bacon is a fair substitute)

3 ounces sliced guanciale (or smoked pork jowl/cheek or bacon)

3.5 ounces roasted red pepper (See Roast a red pepper )

4-5 ounces slices fresh mozzarella

3 ounces Maytag blue cheese (Gorgonzola, Stilton are good substitutes)

3 to 5 tablespoons fig jam or preserves

1/2 cup baby arugula leaves

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Make one 14 ounce dough ball per the Schiacciata dough recipe.

Prepping for the pizza:

Cut pancetta and guanicale and saute in a pan over medium high heat for 3 to 6 minutes. Your goal is not to cook the pork, but to  just “sweat” off some of the fat from the pork and par-cook the meat. The excess fat will be a great compliment on the pizza. Slice the pork in julienned strips and set aside for topping.

Cut the roasted red pepper flesh in a large dice.
For the Pizza:

Form the schiacciata dough into a very long shape.  The best way to start the dough is to pull in a football shape before pressing your fingers into the dough. Then pull the dough from the CENTER of the football, kneading it out towards the end. (Most people just pull on the ends). Drape it over the back of your hands. If the gluten is too tight, walk away and come back after the dough has relaxed. Dimple the dough, aways pressing outwards, then pull the dough until it reaches about 36 inches or the length of your oven. Place on a double layer of parchment paper long enough to accomodate the whole pizza.

Top the sciacciata with the mozzarella, then the blue cheese, then the pork and roasted red peppers. You are now ready for the oven.

I will not kid you now, this long pizza is very hard to cook in a very hot oven. Because no one (including me) has a pan or pizza stone long enough to facilitate this monster, it has to be cooked directly on the oven rack without the dough dipping through the tines.

The problems you will be facing are 1. Uneven cooking. 2. Burning yourself if you are not careful. 3. Spilled cheese on the bottom of your oven 4. The end falling over, depositing all the toppings and cheese on the oven floor if you cannot turn it properly. 5. The parchement burning. These things may lead to some frustration, but I’ve found if you take a used (hopefully Avalanche) pizza box and unfold it, it makes a great pizza peel  or large spatula. You may have to trim it to use it.

Place the pizza in the oven on the very bottom rack. This will set the dough underneath, eliminating a wavy pizza.

Let it bake on the bottom rack for at least 4 minutes.

Move the pizza to the top rack and spin it to expose the opposite side to the back of the oven. Please forgive me for the bad picture but, like I said, this is hard (and I’m a guy who’s hands are always in ovens.)

Cook for aproximately 10 to 12 more minutes, using the unfolded pizza box to turn the pizza around again once more or if needed.

Pull the pizza from the oven and check for doneness and golden browning on the edges. The bottom should be dark golden brown.

Top with the fig jam, arugula and balsamic. Serve to very appreciative guests. Yum.

Famous Joe Carlucci, Pizza Maniac

At the North American Pizza and Ice Cream Show this last weekend, I partook in the annual ritual of competing with some of the best pizza makers in the Midwest. In order to clear the air, let me just say that I took 40th spot in the Gourmet category. Yes, that’s FOUR-ZERO. My pizza choice was the tremendously popular Hot Tuna pie at Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio. Evidently it wasn’t tremendously popular with the judges in Columbus.

Not to worry. My friend and fellow pizza fanatic Joe Carlucci of Tortoras Pizza won with The Sydney in the traditional category on Sunday.

joe carluccij 002

Joe Carlucci with his winning pizza.

I hadn’t seen Joe since last year at the World Pizza Championships in Salsomaggiore, Italy. It was our final night at the five-star Hotel Valentini, and I had just lay down in my bed after an exciting yet rowdy party with my team, The World Pizza Champions. Brits, Irish and  Aussies had joined in the festivities (yes, a very bad combination for any club owner).

Hearing a noise, I opened my  door to see what the commotion was out in the hallway. My foggy eyes saw Joe gleefully jumping up and down, playing rowdy leapfrog down the hallway with the members of the Australian pizza team. They were adept in their hyper-hops along the padded carpet, with nary a miss. I asked if they could pick another hallway. Joe’s last word to me was an endearing, “Ribbitt.”

2009 pictures of italy 025 Joe making his Pizza Teglia at the World Pizza Championships in Italy, 2008.

Joe is to pizza what Willie Mays is to baseball. He’s often overlooked because of bigger, louder, and more aggressive celebrity chefs, pundits and artisan bread cretins shoving their way into the limelight. Joe still has the title from the Guinness Book of World Records for the Highest Pizza Dough Toss, when he threw a perfect round pizza dough 21.5 feet in the air. His competitive nature has propelled him to win numerous culinary as well as acrobatic awards, which is why he is one of the greatest pizza consultants around. But despite all the awards and accolaides, Joe still remains one of the kindest and best friends any pizza guy could have.

Monday, I was in a loser funk that floated around in my head like Badluck Schlep-rock after a failed attempt at pizza victory on Sunday. While standing around with my “L” tatoo newly imprinted on my forehead, Joe came by carrying 4 pans in large plastic bags. The dough in these pans was bloated to the point of looking like “The Blob” of Steve McQueen fame, only these blobs were white.)

“Holy Moly, Joe.” I sniffed the dough, smelling the familiar smell of long-fermentation similar to a mellow Scotch. “How long have you had this stuff fermenting?”

He looked around to see if anyone was listening, “Seven days with a pre-ferment. Wanna see me par-cook this stuff?”

I couldn’t pass up this opportunity. Joe was using two specialized pans from the best custom panmaker in the nation, Lloyd Pans. These pans were seasoned to perfection and would transfer enough heat to turn any dough into a crisp golden brown.

“Looks good,” he continued. “Huh? Huh? Looks great John, huh?

“Yeah,” I said, pushing the now-crisp outside, feeling a great bounce back from the bread-like interior that makes a great Pizza Teglia. (This is a pan pizza process that we undergo at the World Pizza Championships in Italy.)

“You’d tell me if it wasn’t, huh? Huh, John? You would, right? Right?” Joe was rambling, trying to elicit an honest response from me by nagging. Little did he know, I’ve been married for too long to fall for that.

I smiled at the funny way in which this guy, who has won so many competitions, was still modestly demanding a second opinion. He was doing the same thing I do when reaching the finals: get a response from a friend. After all, every opinion from a team member is a good opinion.

joe carlucci 006j

As Joe took his pizza to the table to top it with his ingredients, I asked him about his toppings. “Some sausage, tomatoes and onions and mozzarella.” he said flippantly. I knew this response well. Keep it simple, tell the truth, but not all the truth. Accidently leave the secrets out. For years Joe and I have had conversations like the following:

“Well Joe, that looks like Chorizo sausage,” I said, trying to sound insulted.

“Oh, yeah buddy, sorry. Sausage with paprika…that’s chorizo.”

“Those look like carmelized onions, Joe.”

“Oh yeah. Sorry John, it was a long night.”

“Did you oven-dry those tomatoes, Joe?”

“Ah, maybe…Oh, yes, it think they ended up in the oven. Yes.”

“What’s in that sauce?”

“Tomatoes…and stuff.” he said with finality and smiled. I threw my head back and laughed. Now that’s a competitor, I thought.

Here is a video of Joe’s final moments before submitting his pizza at the show.

And after the final bake, he made another pizza for the finals competition.

After congratulating Joe, I asked him for his recipe. He hasn’t responded. I don’t blame him, as I’m going up against him in Italy and Las Vegas soon. Contact him at Famous Joes and bug him, but don’t get your hopes up.

joe carlucci 023j

Congratulations to Joe. Semper Pie!