The other night, I found out the secret of Pizza Master Domenico Crolla.
Domenico has just achieved the title Italian Cuisine Master Chef by (ICMC) last year and owns some of the best restuarants in the world like Bella Napoli and Pizza Couture in Scotland. Hel…oops…Heck, he’s even made pizza for the Pope. (That’s Pope Benedict not a guy named Fred Pope from the auto department at Sears.)
Check out all Domenico has achieved over the years.
Italian Chef Wars 2007, Las Vegas
International Pizza Challenge 2007, Las Vegas
UK Pizza Designer Award 2006, 2008, 2009
UK Gold Award Pizzeria2008, 2009 & 2010
UK Gold Award Italian Restaurant 2007,2008
Head Judge at PizzaExpo, Las Vegas 2008,2009, 2010, 2011
UK judge at Italy’s Campionato Mondiale della Pizza 2008, 2009, 2010
Chef to Pope Benedict XV1 during his visit to Glasgow in 2010
‘Birra Moretti’ Champion Pizza Chef 2010
World’s most expensive pizza record holder with: Pizza Royale 007
Recipient of the 2011 ‘Italian Cuisine Worldwide Awards’.
Certified as Italian Cuisine Master Chef (ICMC) ad honoremby Accademia Barilla, Parma, Italy
Pretty cool huh, but this recently uncovered video shows the secret to his success!
I have found that to raise a hearty strain of wild yeast as fast as possible from the environmnet without other contaminants takes about four to five days. Just use fruit and filtered water and wash your hands before handling either.
Maturation of a natural starter is a wait-and-see effort. But the starter is only the beginning. It can take up to 20 days of feeding for a strong, fragrant and relevant mother to take hold. (why 20 you idiot?? I can do it in…) When you take your time and don’t push things, your starter will respond better.
I bake hundreds of breads each week and, like kids at differing stages of development, these large plastic bins with goo made from my starters start to talk to me. Some scream for attention early,(i.e. they need a nice bake in the oven.) Others are more mellow and coast for a long period before displaying the fruity, aggressive gas and enzematic activity associated with a great pre-ferment. I’ve even screamed at my staff, “Who put the fruit juice in with this starter?” and, after finding out that it had naturally evolved into this wonderful floral goo, felt like a dad who watching his kid kick some ass at a wrestling match.
I use a cold-maturation for my pre-ferments. This enables the yeasts to activate slower and I think, because I am using old grains like spelt, coaxes more flavor out of the whole grains. Thus, when I plan to bake, (which is every day.) I start a by feeding spelt and high protein flours to my pre-ferment that was made with the natural mother (10 pecent starter to 90 percent high gluten flour spelt and water. Then I feed twice a day for a week with the dough near the pizza ovens, (60-75 degrees.) I throw out or recycle 80 percent of the preferment and add another 80 percent flour and water, mixing with my hands. At this temp, the yeast is in it’s perfect environment to eat, eat, eat, then turn to an almost lifeless soup. After the week, I mix one more time and retard the pre ferment in my walk-in for a much needed rest for a few days.
For bake day, I take my pre ferment out for about five hours. My initial mix starts with the “Autolyse” method of mixing just the flour and water in a Stephan VCM (vertical-cutter-mixer… and yes, this is appalling to most “serious” bakers but…the hell with them- you gotta work with what you got!) I wait about 25 minutes to mix the yeast and salt in. This process greatly enhances the gluten net.
I sometimes use a small amount of diastatic malt from Ohio’s Berry Farms and salt with a hydration of either 40 to 60 pecent depending upon what I am baking. I also use a Pate’ Fermentee, or old dough to the mix. The little bit of malt helps with the overall taste and resulting crust as my dough retards in a cold environment for 12 to sometimes over 48 hours before baking. After this fast mix for up to three whole minutes, I bench the mix for a rest using the windowpane test
Just remember, you learn better from mistakes than from perfection and if you really mess things up, just lie and tell your guests its a “rustic” bread recipe from a lost Celtic tribe off the coast of Idaho. Just don’t blame me, I’m just a goon. Here’s a video of this pizza bianca with a killer topping.
Here is the recipe for the cilantro topping:
These were the Na’an that I attempted. The cilantro topping was great but the dough suc…errrr… didn’t quite meet my expectations.
2 Jalepeno’s
1 red ancho chili
5 cloves garlic
One bunch cilantro
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon cumin
salt and pepper to taste
Place all in a blender, food processor or bowl with an immersion blender and blend together. Hold under refrigeration to let flavors meld for four hours or longer. Place on Pizza Bianca as shown in video