Archive for the ‘Dough Recipes’ Category

The Sorghum Also Rises (part 2)

 

This was the sorghum pizza I made a few months ago and it was fabulous. Made with Starline Organics sorghum syrup and sorghum flour with fresh spinach, Bulgarian Kashkaval cheese, cilantro pesto, Italian soprasetta and roasted red pepper. Yummy!

“Holy Crap, can you taste the cinnamon in this dough?” I screamed over the chaos of this busy tuesday at Avalanche Pizza as I first tasted it. The crust on this pizza was magnificent. I looked around the dough table like a confused dog. “Hey guys, taste this…I put some cinnamon in the pesto but this taste is coming from the crust.”

All four employees concurred with me, the sorghum flour formula was 2 to 1 in this dough and made such a wonderfully sweet, grab-the-roof-of-your-mouth-and-lightly-spice-the-back-of-your-throat experience that it triggered memories of cinnamon in all of us. 

These guys all gobbled this pie up with abandon and I felt like doctor Frankenstein-in a good way and sorghum was my new friendly creation.

There are two types of sorghum, the Sorghum Bicolor, or seeded cereal which when milled is eaten throughout the world, (Below.) In India, they make Chapati with it as well as other unleaven breads from this millet-looking grain.

       The other sorghum is from the saccharatum group. This is what Matt Starline grows here in Athens, Ohio in his lower, swampy pastures and what we made sorghum syrup with (see blog entry.) This is sometimes referred to as “Chinese sugar cane” or “sorgo.” It’s deliciously sticky flavor was a cheap alternative to maple syrup in the late 19th century.

      

Matt Starline and the Amish make the sorghum syrup from Matts 2011 crop of sorghum cane. Right is the finished product in order; first of the batch and the darker end of the batch of sorghum syrup.

 This fantastic grain was initially cultivated in Ethiopia in 4000 B.C. and since it’s such a young culinary treat, I decided to do what no one has ever attempted. (Insert sarcastic, lying cough here.) I am gonna make this pizza with sorghum flour and syrup now.

Recipe:

For the Pesto:

One big bunch of cilantro (2 cups)

One whole chopped jalepeno

One half tablespoon cinnamon

two to three garlic cloves, minced

One cup extra virgin olive oil

half cup sorghum syrup

One pinch powdered coriander

salt to taste

                                      

Mix all in a bowl adding the sorghum syrup last. Blend with an immersion blender or food processor adding salt to taste.

For the pizza:

Two cups sorghum flour

One cup high gluten flour (or bread flour)

One half teaspoon yeast

One cup water

One half teaspoon salt

One cup Bulgarian Kashkaval Cheese. (Or any mild cheddar or mild sheeps milk cheese.)

One cup fresh spinach

Five slices (or 3-4 ounces) of julienned soprasetta or Italian salami.

One half roasted red pepper

Cilantro pesto (made above) as needed after the oven.

                          

Put 2 cups sorhum flour in bowl, add one cup bakers or higher gluten flour, mix in half teaspoon yeast. Add one cup water.

                                                

Mix well. You may have to add more water or flour until a cohesive dough ball forms. Cover at room temp for four hours.

                                         

The dough will have almost doubled after four hours. Cut in half and reserve other half. Form another ball. let rest for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 460 degrees with an upturned heavy cookie pan or pizza stone in the oven.

                                           

Using fingers, form a pizza round. Remember, there is less gluten in this dough so be careful. Place on parchment.

                       

Place Bulgarian Kashkaval cheese on dough, then spinach and soprasetta followed by the roasted red pepper.

       

 Cook in the oven for 12 to 15 minutes until done. NOTE: The sorghum flour does not brown like wheat flour so gauge the doneness by the bottom of the pizza and the feel of the crust instead of the appearance. Pour cilantro pesto on and enjoy your sorghum pizza.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Natural Yeast Pizza Bianca

     This Pizza Bianca is different from the 6-foot monsters made in Rome, Italy but tasty nonetheless. My staff and I ate the rest.

I promised to do a blog post about how to make pizza bianca and, I guess, this should be considered a “blomise.” After an earlier blog post on natural yeast, I’ve had alot of comments about the time it takes to obtain a strong enough levening agent to use in bread or pizza dough so… I’ve decided to combine the two.

 I have found that to raise a hearty strain of wild yeast as fast as possible from the environmnet without other contaminants takes about four to five days. Just use fruit and filtered water and wash your hands before handling either.

Maturation of a natural starter is a wait-and-see effort. But the starter is only the beginning. It can take up to 20 days of feeding for a strong, fragrant and relevant mother to take hold. (why 20 you idiot?? I can do it in…) When you take your time and don’t push things, your  starter will respond better.

 I bake hundreds of breads each week and, like kids at differing stages of development, these large plastic bins with goo made from my starters start to talk to me. Some scream for attention early,(i.e. they need a nice bake in the oven.) Others are more mellow and coast for a long period before displaying the fruity, aggressive gas and enzematic activity associated with a great pre-ferment. I’ve even screamed at my staff, “Who put the fruit juice in with this starter?” and, after finding out that it had naturally evolved into this wonderful floral goo, felt like a dad who watching his kid kick some ass at a wrestling match.

 I use a cold-maturation for my pre-ferments. This enables the yeasts to activate slower and I think, because I am using old grains like spelt, coaxes more flavor out of the whole grains. Thus, when I plan to bake, (which is every day.) I start a by feeding spelt and high protein flours to my pre-ferment that was made with the natural mother (10 pecent starter to 90 percent high gluten flour spelt and water. Then I feed twice a day for a week with the dough near the pizza ovens, (60-75 degrees.) I throw out or recycle 80 percent of the preferment and add another 80 percent flour and water, mixing with my hands. At this temp, the yeast is in it’s perfect environment to eat, eat, eat, then turn to an almost lifeless soup. After the week, I mix one more time and retard the pre ferment in my walk-in for a much needed rest for a few days.

For bake day, I take my pre ferment out for about five hours. My initial mix starts with the “Autolyse” method of mixing just the flour and water in a Stephan VCM (vertical-cutter-mixer… and yes, this is appalling to most “serious” bakers but…the hell with them- you gotta work with what you got!) I wait about 25 minutes to mix the yeast and salt in. This process greatly enhances the gluten net.

 I sometimes use a small amount of diastatic malt from Ohio’s Berry Farms and salt with a hydration of either 40 to 60 pecent depending upon what I am baking.  I also use a Pate’ Fermentee, or old dough to the mix. The little bit of malt helps with the overall taste and resulting crust as my dough retards in a cold environment for 12 to sometimes over 48 hours before baking. After this fast mix for up to three whole minutes, I bench the mix for a rest using the windowpane test

I hope you can learn some stuff from this but, just remember, I am just a pizza guy and baker who has pretty much learned by the seat of my pants, but if you want some books that are great, try Peter Reinharts “The Bread Bakers Apprentice” or “My Bread” by Jim Lahey, or “Tartine Bread.”

Just remember, you learn better from mistakes than from perfection and if you really mess things up, just lie and tell your guests its a “rustic” bread recipe from a lost Celtic tribe off the coast of Idaho. Just don’t blame me, I’m just a goon. Here’s a video of this pizza bianca with a killer topping.

 
                                                             

Here is the recipe for the cilantro topping:

These were the Na’an that I attempted. The cilantro topping was great but the dough suc…errrr… didn’t quite meet my expectations.

2 Jalepeno’s

1 red ancho chili

5 cloves garlic

One bunch cilantro

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon cumin

salt and pepper to taste

Place all in a blender, food processor or bowl with an immersion blender and blend together. Hold under refrigeration to let flavors meld for four hours or longer. Place on Pizza Bianca as shown in video