Posts Tagged ‘shade winery’

Kimchi-cured Pork Belly & Paw Paw Jam Pizza

Three weeks ago, the end of paw-paw season neared and the last fat and ripe paw-paws clung on for dear life to each jungle-leaved tree. At this time of year, they are hard to spot because of lush foliage and shadows so gathering can be a real squint-fest.

This is why my son and I, with some friends, headed for the deep woods and did what everyone around these parts tells you not to do.

“When Paw Paw Hunting, Never Shake The Tree.” 

Well, since we ignored this sage advice and shook every tree to be found, my kids came up with another life-lesson;  If you do shake a paw paw tree,  “NEVER LOOK UP WHILE SHAKING A PAW PAW TREE.”

 

While we were out in the wilds of Athens County, Ohio, I picked up some Harmony Hollow pork belly and had it marinating in Kimchi no moto, or concetrated kimchi sauce. Then I selected some smooth double-cream brie, bitter raddichio di Treviso and flat-leaf parsley, crunchy pistachios and some roasted ancho chili’s. Best of all, I met up with Neal Dix of Shade Winery and he just handed me a cluster of beautiful chardonnay grapes he just harvested. (Thanks Neal!)

Recipe: One seven ounce dough ball from the Easy Dough Recipe on this blog.

One eight to twelve ounce piece of pork belly.

Three tablespoons of sugar.

One tablespoon salt.

Five turns of a pepper mill

Three tablespoons of kimchi no moto (or kimchi powder.)

One tablespoon Tamari soy sauce.

One tablespoon red miso.

                          

Place salt, sugar and cracked pepper into a bowl, add the kimchi no moto.

                            

Add the soy sauce, miso and pork belly and marinate in the refrigerator for 12 hours. Saute in a medium hot pan until the outside is carmelized, (about 12 minutes.) 

For the other toppings:

Three ripe paw paws

One clump of grapes, (preferably local and organic.)

Eight ounces of double cream imported brie.

Seven to eight leaves of raddichio di Traviso sauteed with a tablespoon of olive oil for four mintes on high heat.

One medium ancho chili, roasted on a hot grill until charred, cooled then peeled and sliced into strips.

One half handful of pistacios smashed with the flat of a knife.

Half a handful of Italian flat-leaf parsley.

 

 

                         

Take the grapes and smash in your had to render juice into the bowl. Disgard pulp and stems.

                          

Strain the grape juice and reduce by half in a saute pan.

                          

Pull the paw paw apart and gently take the pulp out of the paw paw. This will be messy, (get over it…har har) alot of pulp affixes to the seeds so you will have to squeeze and rub the seeds to get said pulp off. Add reduced grape juce to the paw paw.

                                                          

Slice the pork belly on the bias into eighth of an inch batons. Slice the raddiccio into inch long pieces. Smash pistachios with the flat of a knife.

                              

Form a disc of the dough and slice the brie and place on the dough. Add the raddichio then the roasted ancho strips.

                                                      

Put the kimchi marinated pork on top and bake in the oven for 12 to 15 minutes.

Place the paw paw and grape jam on top of the pizza in spokes and garnish with parsley. Heaven awaits!  

 

Local Pancetta, Rouqefort and Chardo-Paw Pizza

When was the last time you ate an entree, sandwich, pizza, soup, salad or bread that can be traced to the people and places you know? Last week?  The week before that? Never perhaps? Our modern world, with all our mega-mart grocers, has made it very hard to complete the cycle of local consumption. We’ve thrown out familiarity and support for our local farmers in our great quest for easy pickins’ with waxy tomatoes picked by slave labor packaged in deceptive red netting and “All Natural” pork from pigs that haven’t stepped more than three paces their whole lives. Most folks don’t really see a problem with this ”from afar” food chain of giant trucks rolling into town all day and night; after all, if you haven’t tasted a real, unsprayed grape or local heirloom pork your whole life, you just wouldn’t know.

Because I sell breads at the Athens Farmers Market, I constantly have “Oh my god!” moments when I bite into some of the best produce and meats in this country. Years ago, I bit into an apple grown by Shews Orchard and blurted, “That’s like no other apple I’ve ever tasted!” This was because I was used to buying produce from my the large grocery store. I just didn’t know. Now I do and constantly try to integrate local, organic ingredients in my pizzas on this blog.

    

This pizza rocks on so many of those levels because all of the toppings are produced, grown or foraged by people I know. The motivation for curing the pancetta fresca (pork belly, a.k.a. fresh side) on this pizza came from the fabulous new book “Salumi” by a writer and chef I greatly admire: Michael Ruhlman (left) along with chef Brian Polcyn.

 

The cheese is a wonderful Rouqefort made at Integration Acres by Michelle Gorman and Chris Chmiel (check out last blog entry.)

 

The pancetta fresca (fresh pork belly, or “fresh side” they call it here) is from Rich Blazer and Harmony Hollow Farms.

  

The chardonnay grapes were given to me from Neal Dix of Shade Winery in Shade, Ohio and the arugula was growing in a pot in my backyard near a small and very gnarly cherry pepper.

 

The paw paws were…a pain in the keester! Check out my almost-unsuccessful paw-paw forage where I was only able to get three.

This is going to be a great pie! The local goat rouqefort is not as salty as the stuff from France so its a perfect match with the salty pancetta. The sweet paw-paw-chardonnay jam is a fantastic counterpoint to the piquant and savory cheese and pancetta. The nuanced spice from the pepper is a great suprise and the arugula is a refreshing and crunchy end to every bite!

Using the Easy Dough Recipe on this blog, make yourself a seven ounce dough ball and reserve in the refrigerator for the next day.

For the pancetta quick cure: Variation of recipe from “Salumi” (Ruhlman, Polcyn)

One large baton (8-12 ounces) of pork belly. This is cut across the belly and is usually sold at Farmers Markets in inch-wide strips for making lardon.

1/4 cup sea salt

20 turns of a pepper mill

                     

Place the pancetta baton in a bag and toss with the salt and pepper. Place in the refrigerator for 20 to 24 hours until stiff.

                                     

After the salt has absorbed and the baton is stiff, rinse well with cold water and dry with paper towels. Slice in half (to fit the pan) and sear on high for 10 to 12 minutes until the outer edges brown nicely. Reserve for the pizza topping.

For the paw-paw-chardonnay jam: (be ready to get your hands messy with this!)

                        

Break the paw-paws apart with your hand and let the loose pulp fall into the bowl. The amount of seeds will vary with various paw-paws so take each seed between your thumb and other fingers and roll hard to get the pulp off of the seed. Discard the seeds. Draw you finger against the inner wall of the skin to peel away what pulp you can.

                                             

Place 1/2 teaspoon of lemon juice (or quarter of a lemon) into the pulp and mix. Take the chardonnay grapes and squish (is that a word?) with your hand. If you are a traditionalist, you can do this with your stinky feet. Place the seeds and skins aside.

                     

Strain the juice and pour into a hot pan. Reduce by half.

                                                                           

Cool the grape juice in the fridge then add to the paw-paw pulp. Refrigerate until topping.

For the Pizza:

1 pancetta baton

bowl of paw-paw, chardonnay grape jam

half of a hot cherry pepper

5 to 8 ounces of roquefort cheese

Handful of arugula

                              

 Preheat the oven to 475 degrees and place a pizza stone or upturned and heavy cookie sheet on the middle deck. Chop up the hot pepper and use as much as you can handle. Slice the pancetta on the bias.

             

Form the pizza dough ball into a disc, place on a pizza screen and top with the cheese, pancetta and diced pepper.

          

Place in the oven for 10 to 12 minutes until nice, brown and crispy.

              

 And enjoy like crazy.