Posts Tagged ‘guanciale’

Brining and Curing Anchovies for Pizza Metro il “Gilda”

I’ve been to Italy 6 times in my life and have never experienced the kind of friendship, comfort and down-home hospitality as in Holiday House Gilda in Positano. Giuseppe, Gilda, Daniella and Rosa are amazing in the way they welcome you and see to your every need as you relax at this cliffside slice of paradise.

I have this small thought that they must be terribly annoyed by us, the spastic small business owner pizza freaks, constantly talking about the pizza that is gonna win the World Pizza Championships and take the world by storm in Salsomaggiore, Italy.

Today, I’ll finish preping for a marinated anchovy pizza with asparagus, mozzarella, Parmesan and fresh cherry tomatoes finished with chopped roasted almonds. I tell Giuseppe and Gilda my goal of destroying all competitors at the pizza competition and after several minutes of giggling, they said they are happy to help.

Eating my way though Positano with fellow American restaurant owners Mike, Bruno and Tom.

Yesterday, I blasted the whole mountainside with the fatty-sweet smell of sauteed guanciale (pork jowl) that I sweated in the kitchen in my room. (You have to cook this stuff or your pizza will be way too greasy.) I heard Gilda talking and instantly thought she was mad at the amount of pork smell this process produced. As she entered my room, and I turned into the 5 year-old I really am inside, she smiled, and asked for a bite. “Beautiful” she said, and walked out. What a class act!

My three great friends who helped me time and time again; Bruno, Rosa and Mike .

Bruno went to Naples and got owners of famous pizza places to let him throw pizzas. Today he went to Trianon, one of the oldest and respected pizzerias in the world. (pictures to follow). I stayed with Giuseppe today foraging for fresh veggies, then descended the steps to the secluded beach for a cold swim.

Last night, Bruno, our travelling companions Mike and Tom, and I made 2 bigas. A biga is a pre-fermented dough we add to another batch of dough to make the final product more digestable, taste better and perform better in any pizza compeitition. Bruno’s looks much better.

Right now, check out how Giuseppe and Gilda showed me the right way to brine and cure fresh anchovy. These are the freshest anchovies I’ve ever encountered and are a totally different taste than the flattened, salted fish-leather we are all used to in the States.

Now, here’s the goon totally screwing it up. (What a know-it-all.)

After the overnight cure of salt, vinegar and lemon juice, Giuseppe rinses the fish twice and pats them dry. He adds them to a marinade of salt, extra virgin olive oil (crushed from the trees outside our window), small thin slices of garlic, and peperoncini (hanging on the wall after being grown from the garden outside).

After a double-flushing of cold water, Giuseppe drains the anchovies for a few minutes before patting dry.

Now is time for Giuseppe’s final flourish of olive oil, salt, garlic and pepper flakes.

Tomorrow we leave for the 8-hour trip to Salsomaggiore. After covering Rome for a day and staying down south here in Positano, it will be nice to “Get to it”. Earlier today, we went to a grocery store in Sorrento. As we walked in, Bruno pointed at me and exclaimed very loudly, John, the compeition starts NOW!” Then he ran to the back of the store. You could have heard a pin drop as I stood there, trying to  find the things I needed through the stares of the locals. Bruno was right. This was gonna be a tough competition.

See you in Salso.

Best Pizza in Mid-America

Recently I was lucky enough leave my home in Athens and Avalanche Pizza Bakers to compete in the best run and most thrilling pizza competition, held at the largest pizza convention anywhere in the world: The International Pizza Challenge at the Pizza Expo, in Las Vegas. I saw all my friends from around the world, cooked world-class pizza and found and stole new ideas. I made  this spectacular schiacciata, or long pizza.

I won the title “Best Pizza in Mid-America” title with this pizza that exhibited that agra dolci (sweet and sour) taste that I love.

Schiacciata means “squashed” or “flattened” in Italian. You can find thin or thick crusts and just about everything under the sun on them in Italy. I make a tremendous amount of these pizzas at the Athens Farmers Market using local cheeses, vegetables and meats.

This long pizza consists of Maytag Blue cheese, fresh mozzarella, pancetta (Italian cured but not smoked pork belly), smoked guanciale (cured and smoked pork jowl), and roasted red peppers. I slather just enough fig jam to excite the palate and then place a peppery arugula on top. The final sweet/sour note is supplied by a drizzling of balsamic vinegar.

Guanciale and Pancetta Schiacciata

1 recipe Schiacciata dough

3  ounces sliced pancetta (bacon is a fair substitute)

3 ounces sliced guanciale (or smoked pork jowl/cheek or bacon)

3.5 ounces roasted red pepper (See Roast a red pepper )

4-5 ounces slices fresh mozzarella

3 ounces Maytag blue cheese (Gorgonzola, Stilton are good substitutes)

3 to 5 tablespoons fig jam or preserves

1/2 cup baby arugula leaves

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Make one 14 ounce dough ball per the Schiacciata dough recipe.

Prepping for the pizza:

Cut pancetta and guanicale and saute in a pan over medium high heat for 3 to 6 minutes. Your goal is not to cook the pork, but to  just “sweat” off some of the fat from the pork and par-cook the meat. The excess fat will be a great compliment on the pizza. Slice the pork in julienned strips and set aside for topping.

Cut the roasted red pepper flesh in a large dice.
For the Pizza:

Form the schiacciata dough into a very long shape.  The best way to start the dough is to pull in a football shape before pressing your fingers into the dough. Then pull the dough from the CENTER of the football, kneading it out towards the end. (Most people just pull on the ends). Drape it over the back of your hands. If the gluten is too tight, walk away and come back after the dough has relaxed. Dimple the dough, aways pressing outwards, then pull the dough until it reaches about 36 inches or the length of your oven. Place on a double layer of parchment paper long enough to accomodate the whole pizza.

Top the sciacciata with the mozzarella, then the blue cheese, then the pork and roasted red peppers. You are now ready for the oven.

I will not kid you now, this long pizza is very hard to cook in a very hot oven. Because no one (including me) has a pan or pizza stone long enough to facilitate this monster, it has to be cooked directly on the oven rack without the dough dipping through the tines.

The problems you will be facing are 1. Uneven cooking. 2. Burning yourself if you are not careful. 3. Spilled cheese on the bottom of your oven 4. The end falling over, depositing all the toppings and cheese on the oven floor if you cannot turn it properly. 5. The parchement burning. These things may lead to some frustration, but I’ve found if you take a used (hopefully Avalanche) pizza box and unfold it, it makes a great pizza peel  or large spatula. You may have to trim it to use it.

Place the pizza in the oven on the very bottom rack. This will set the dough underneath, eliminating a wavy pizza.

Let it bake on the bottom rack for at least 4 minutes.

Move the pizza to the top rack and spin it to expose the opposite side to the back of the oven. Please forgive me for the bad picture but, like I said, this is hard (and I’m a guy who’s hands are always in ovens.)

Cook for aproximately 10 to 12 more minutes, using the unfolded pizza box to turn the pizza around again once more or if needed.

Pull the pizza from the oven and check for doneness and golden browning on the edges. The bottom should be dark golden brown.

Top with the fig jam, arugula and balsamic. Serve to very appreciative guests. Yum.