Posts Tagged ‘athens’

Pizza al Nero di Seppia

 

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I just love black foods. Maybe because the culinary sadist in me longs to see the shock of modern Americans as grown adults say “ewww” after I tell them what made the dough black or when they take that first tentative bite of squid ink pasta or bread.

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Squid ink has been around a long time. Adding it too foods is more of a visual affair compared to a flavor thingy because the taste has only a nuanced taste of the sea.

This pizza is a long Pizza al Metro and I wanted it to be a very wet profile because the squid ink dough best reflects the deep-dark alveoli or cells when it is hydrated and cold fermented a long time. This produces a killer oven spring and blasting cornicione. I’ve always liked a cool vegetal sauce when using burrata, the creamy-centered mozzarella from the Puglia region. On top of these two, I planned my fave: Sicilian white anchovies or Alici Marinati- I covered them ions ago right on this blog here:

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I first made a Salsa Verde of cilantro, green pepper, red onion, a few garlic cloves, fresh basil and olive oil with salt and pepper.

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Then,  I played the dough out on parchment and par heated my oven to over 600 degrees. I layed the sauce thick because of evaporation and blasted this sucker for eleven minutes until the crust rose and the sauce solidified somewhat. Then I added fiore di latte mozzarella from Wisconson and some homemade burrata on top.

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I baked the pizza for only a few more minutes to melt the cheese and set the sauce and crust then pulled it from the oven, added the anchovies and cut furiously into the melting mass of black, green, white and silver.

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This was a spectacular way to enjoy a squid ink pizza!

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The cell structure on this was airy and light and added a nice foil to the cream and astringently seafaring quality of the anchovies.

 

Bone Marrow, Turnip and Staghorn Sumac Pizza

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Winter is a great crisp season with plenty of cabin time to contemplate exactly what makes a fabulous pie. Gone are the playful distractions of summer and the bounty of all the great produce from farms around these parts. These cold months used to be the leanest times in the days of old as foods were either pulled from pickling jars in root cellars or fermented to lengthen the lifespan. These days, it seems that everything is so readily available as long as those giant fossil-fuel, tractor-trailers keep loading up our mega stores with foods from all over the world.

Convenience is the hallmark word of todays food system where terms like ‘Conventional’ has replaced ‘sprayed’ and “local” is relegated to tags referring to a distribution hub, not a field. (That’s you Kroger!)

I’ve decided to embrace three of the foods I’ve found outside in the these winter days of southeast Ohio; The Staghorn Sumac and a frozen Italian flat-leaf parsley plant along with some crisp radishes that my friend and teacher Keith Mcartney grew with his class at Federal Hocking High School. I’ve incorporated all three into a pizza with roasted bone marrow, Parmigiano Reggiano, and Teleggio.

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I started with the Staghorn Sumac as a tea. The sumac I collected was from atop a mountain in a forest in Vinton county right over where we saw some nice logs of bobcat scat. It was perfectly dried from the strong winds.

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After rinsing the sumac thoroughly, I reduced it  in a pot of boiling water brought to a simmer until the liquid looked dark and tasted like a sumac tea. I then strained the sumac and reduced the liquid by half. Then I added sugar and local honey to taste and reduced further for a wonderful balsamic like glaze, (above). This sumac glaze had a wonderful cranberry-pink lemonaide flavor with hints of raspberry and was very easy to make.

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Now I wanted to use a frozen parsley plant that was lingering in my garden.

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So I just yanked that baby up and went right after the “artichokes” that were growing off the hearty root bottom. These were crisp and tender.

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After cutting and cleaning these artichoke-like buds, I quickly heated a brine of apple cider vinegar, champagne vinegar, cumin seed, mustard seed, black peppercorn and celery seed with a little local Cantrell honey then poured it over the chokes and let them steep until they were pickled and ultra tender. I then refrigerated them

I then sliced the turnip thinly in discs and sautéed in extra virgin olive oil with a thin seasoning of salt and white pepper until tender.

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I took the marrow bones and placed in a pre-heated 450 degree oven for only about 12 minutes until the marrow was just loosened up. (Remember, this will cook on a pizza later.) Letting the marrow cool, I then coaxed it out with my finger and sliced for topping.

So now I was ready to make my pie.

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I first made sure my oven was at or above 600 degrees then topped my disc with the Parmigiano and the turnip discs.

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Then I topped with teleggio followed by the sliced bone marrow.

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I  stoked the this baby in the oven until nice, golden brown and crisp then I added Japanese-mandolin-sliced rasishes, the pickled parsley root artichokes and a nice swirl of the Staghorn Sumac glaze.

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This pizza has it all for a great winter adjective chowfest! The creamy Teleggio melted in with the beefy marrow and meaty turnip followed by the lingering Parmigiano umami, the crunch of the radish and sweet and sour welcome of my wild friends of winter.