Those are the two words I mutter when I finally load the car up to leave the Athens Farmers Market every Saturday. It only takes me a few hours to sell over 400 loaves of bread, pizza, fougasse, Turkish-style pide, na’an, baguette, boule, ciabatta and everything in between. I am a real lucky guy to have a community that embraces wild and wonderful foods including as many local products as my farmer friends can throw at me. I also couldn’t do this without my baking buddies Torrey Evans, Jeremy Sykes, Joel Fair and David Valentine. Here are some pics of the stuff we bake.
A fairly insane caul fat-wrapped batard with fresh herbs and bacon. A heart healthy log of pork goodness! Just heat and gorge.
Some wonderous sourdough that Torrey Baked.
Asparagus season is here with my crunchy and delicious asparagus stuffed fougasse with a chickpea pudding, ramps and a local Integration Acres aged goat cheddar cheese.
Add to that some long fougasse filled with basil, cumin and bacon and topped with Asiago cheese.
Add to that the Bumble Bee Batard stuffed with a cool potato pudding- coming up in another post…enough already, check out the videos below.
Here are a few videos of the last months baking. Please remember, I am usually addled by the previous 12 hours of baking frenzy…not the best time to turn on the personality but I make up for it with the male and female strippers at the end of the video…Booya!
There’s nothing I like better than slicing into a great big freshly cooked ciabatta and creating a great big dagwood sandwich before stuffing it into my great big mouth. With protruding cheeks stuffed with this Italian slipper bread, I mumble thanks to the guy who made this happen, Arnaldo Cavallari.
In 1982, Arnaldo retired from car racing to work at his family’s flour mill in Adria, in the Veneto. He probably wasn’t the first to start making ciabatta. Similar breads are made around Lake Como (ciabatta di como) but Arnaldo was the first to set up the methodology and authentication of the Ciabatta Italia.
Smaller ciabatta for sale.
Traditional ciabatta is made with tipo 1 italia, a soft flour. This flour is like a strong all-purpose flour or American bread flour, but a tad darker and a bit less refined than the famous “tipo 00″ flour used for authentic Italian wood- fired pizza. The protein content of tipo 1 is 10 percent.
My “scaletta” or ladder sticks made with ciabatta dough and baked with pressed green and black Cerignola olives
These days there are (so-called) ciabatta everywhere. The grocery store has small hockey pucks that taste of chalk and chemicals (watch out for that “TBHQ added for freshness”*) but these can easily pass through the gullet with a bucket of water. I’ve even had “Eye-talian” slipper bread in West Virginia that was used to make “house special” garlic bread. Unfortunately, the shape and the way it was cut belied the fact that it was just a hot dog bun.
Making ciabatta is great fun and most rewarding. After 4 days nurturing starters, old dough pre-ferments, a poolish, then mixing the heavily-hydrated mass perfectly, performing due-dillegence in proofing, (rising) and standing by my Impinger pizza ovens, spritzing, peeking and turning, the final product is amazing. Making and cooking ciabatta is like having a kid…that you can eat. Sometimes I vary the way I cook this dough and make variations on the ciabatta theme. Below are two more examples.
Mr. Stipey, Manchego and nettle pizzas (left). Small schiacciata (right); Romagna (above) and local aged cheddar (below)
Sometimes making caprese sandwiches is like laying railroad tracks.
It’s usually 6 a.m. when I finish the ciabatta. The sun is starting to peek through my pizzeria window and Garrison Keeler is performing “Guy Noir- Private Detective” on the radio. I can cook 5 ciabatta at a time. I usually eye one that I save just for me. After slicing some room temperature Brie, Genoa salami, prosciutto di Parma, arugula and fresh tomato, I am in heaven.
If you want my recipe for ciabatta, just send $1000 dollars (Canadian) to me. Or if you want a really great recipe, just go to Peter Reinhart’s blog.
*TBHQ is a by product of butane. It is banned in Europe and Japan because of its proven relationship with ADHD and hyperactivity in children. Its use has grown since large food corporations have stopped using trans-fats in their foods. This means that they have to use real oils instead. To store these oils in massive quantities, they spike them with TBHQ. Unfortunately for us, because of lobbying efforts by large corporations, if a chemical is less than 5% of the product, the food companies do not have to put it on the label.