Archive for the ‘Local Ingredients’ Category

Chanterelle and Rabbit Pizza

2014 summer 044ii

Mid summer is chanterelle time in Appalachia and also a great time to make a pizza with this wonderful mushroom.

IMG_3366ii

I was recently in the mountains south of Asheville, North Carolina and found some very gorgeous patches of delectable chanterelle mushrooms. These were much larger with a deeper depth of color than I have found in Southeast Ohio but still had the fake gills and apricot smell of true chanterelles. The kids had a great time collecting them with me on the lookout for poison ivy.

IMG_3382ii IMG_3360ii

This pizza is also an ode to the late Charlie Trotter who’s love of chanterelle and rabbit was reflected in his cookbooks. I especially loved the way he used time to benefit his dishes by patiently using low temperatures and reductions to layer flavors in his sauces. This pie has the same qualities of a low-slow sauce made from braising of rabbit thighs and a later addition of chanterelle. The lusciousness afforded by this sauce is juxtaposed with the rabbit ‘bacon’ and its salty-sweet yakitori buzz. The melting fresh mozzarella and chanterelle is heightened by the candy-sweet cherry tomato and even the smokiness of the burnt cornicione on this pie. (yes, I neant to do that… I swear.)  This took a while in prep but was well worth it.

Sauce Recipe:

One tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

One half yellow onion diced

Two bone-in rabbit thighs

Four cups chicken stock

One half pound fresh chanterelle mushrooms

2014 summer 001ii 2014 summer 002ii 2014 summer 006ii 2014 summer 007ii

Pour the olive oil in the pan and sear the thighs on high heat until the outside is browned. Add the onion and continue the sauté for five minutes or until the onions are transparent, then add the chicken stock and reduce the heat to medium. Cover and cook for at least forty-five minutes to one hour until the meat is falling off the bone.

2014 summer 009ii 2014 summer 014ii 2014 summer 016ii

Break up the rabbit thigh and add the mushrooms to the pan. Sauté without lid for another twenty minutes. If too dry, add more stock. Strain with a fine strainer and place pan back on medium to low heat and reduce until the sauce caramelizes reducing by half again. This sauce should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. take off heat and reserve in a cool place.

Prep Recipe:

2014 summer 021ii 2014 summer 023ii  2014 summer 024ii

Using a sharp knife, cut along the belly flap and the loin and separate. Turn the rabbit loin over and cut the tenderloin. (A small strip not to be overlooked.)

2014 summer 026ii

Carefully and season the loin and tenderloin with salt and pepper.  Salt the rabbit belly for three hours then prepare the yakitori sauce. Rinse the belly meat under cold running water. Dry the belly flap.

Yakitori sauce:

One cup low-sodium soy sauce

Half cup sugar

Quarter cup rice wine vinegar

Half cup sake, or dry white wine

Procedure:

Place all ingredients in a saucepan and reduce to a thick sauce over medium high heat. If it is too salty to your liking, add more sugar, if too sweet add more soy

2014 summer 027ii

 

Pour the yakitori sauce to soak the rabbit bacon. Let sit in a cool environment for two hours then put in a 270 degree oven for 15 minutes turning often. Pull from the oven and set aside. Check for doneness of the bacon and if it is not slow-cooked through enough, place in the same oven for another five minutes. Cool. Saute the loin for only three to six minutes to a medium-rare. The tenderloin will only take one minute to cook. Set both aside to cool.

2014 summer 029ii 2014 summer 034ii

Create a dough round from either the Easy Dough Recipe or your own mix. Using a spatula, smear the rabbit-mushroom sauce on the disc. then cut the remaining chanterelle mushrooms up and place on the dough, add mozzarella. Cut the rabbit loin and cherry tomato and place all on the dough with the tenderloin. Cut strips from the rabbit bacon and prepare to place on the cooked pie. Below, I placed some fabulous pickled ramps from spring on the pizza to cut through the lusciousness of the other ingredients. Yum.

2014 summer 040ii

 

Cook in the 495 degree oven for twelve minutes until golden and crisp. After the oven, place the rabbit bacon on the pie and enjoy with friends and even enemies.

 

Insider Baking, Summer 2014

IMG_2578iii My definition of insanity is to make the same pizzas and breads with the same recipes and the same ingredients in the same oven for years and years and years!

Even the glory of a “authentic” wood-fired bake, the prospect of bakers asthma, and the accolades of being a true “Artisan” by smarmy award-winning bloggers and critics isn’t much of a turn-on. That’s why nine years ago, I decided to do a professional zig-zag by baking some amazing bread and pizza-bread variants. (I call them “varmints” because that’s what some old guy thought I said whilst I was referring to my bread “variants”… and I like it better.)

The schiacciata above is made with a dough at 55 percent hydration, ramp pesto topped with La Grande Ruota, “Fioretto” fine polenta, roasted fingerling tips and finished with white truffle.) So, as I started the “Zig”….and just kept zigging along with breads stuffed with ribs, garlic pudding and even other breads that I have recorded in this fantastic pizza blog. Every once in a while, I do ‘zag” and feature some northern Italian pizza recipes, southern Italian pizza recipes, fruit pizza recipes, pizza dough recipes and just plain every topping under the sun but now… I present to you my pizza and bread “Varmints” I’ve been making this summer.

 

IMG_2693ii   IMG_2370ii

Above are two “Cornetti” which are over 80 percent hydrated and aged for three to four days under refrigeration. The left is a vegan variety stuffed with a cashew-tahini-sweet miso pudding, fresh spinach, Peruvian purple potato, roasted beetroot at carrot and baked at 700 degrees. On the right is a cornetti stuffed with gruyere, broccoli roasted beetroot, kohlrabi, and fresh spinach. It was cooked at 550 degrees and spinkled with sesame.

 

IMG_2783ii  IMG_2786ii IMG_2797

Here’s a good look at a long tall sally of bread using beetroot again. This fougasse has a great sweet and spicy flavor profile of mango and some mid-summer ancho chilies that I roasted for a spicier, charred effect.

 

summer 2014ii 192ii summer 2014ii 198ii

Because it is summer, the heirloom tomatoes keep coming. I try to bake them on pizza but because of their juiciness, I prefer a low-highdrated dough like this fifty percent hydration dough. These are German Pink, Carolina Gold and Mr. Stipey heirlooms with fresh spinach and authentic English Stilton. Massive food love!

 

IMG_2675ii IMG_2674ii IMG_2677ii

And while we are on the subject of beets in bread… here is a fougasse that I have paired with some great Amish carrot and my homemade mustard seed caviar.

 

summer 2014ii 087ii summer 2014ii 088ii

This balzy combination of Italian polenta and toasted pine nuts is on a vegan schiacciata with all my loves; toasted pignoli polenta, roasted fingerling potatoes, oven dried tomato, (tomato confit) and a nice slurry of ramp pesto from this spring. All the lusciousness of a princess with the intense sweet and tang of a WWF wrestler.

 

IMG_2678ii  IMG_2685ii IMG_2686ii

Here is fluer di lie in the style of a Turkish pide of dried pear, cinnamon, pecan and blueberry with a balsamic-blueberry glaze, all in a local spelt bread.

 

summer 2014ii 280ii summer 2014ii 281ii

Here’s what a 85 percent hydrated, naturally yeasted dough bakes up to after almost four days under cold fermentation. I baked these schiacciata at 630 degrees with a fabulous topping of fresh spinach, Shiitake, portobello, porcini, cremini and button mushrooms, Fontina, (DOP) and Teleggio, (DOP), there is Parmigiano Reggiano underneath and I topped this after the oven with white truffle oil and a killer balsamic glaze.

 

IMG_2753ii IMG_2756ii IMG_2794ii IMG_2809ii

I’ve been using sprouted grains and legumes in my breads for years now but none is better than the Puy, or Green French Lentil because it sprouts fast and has a fantastic toasty, savory quality in breads. Here I did a crescent shaped fougasse filled with the sprouted lentils, local King Family Bacon, Amish carrots from Chesterhill, Ohio, what a great combo!

 

IMG_2580ii IMG_2581ii

I love working with 80 percent hydration dough and even higher. Above left is a vegan schiacciata with a pudding made with raw cashews, tahini and sweet miso and on top of this is vanilla-cinnamon roasted butternut squash, beet and carrot. On the right is a crazy-delicious schiacciata of curry roasted sweet onion, fire roasted corn, re-hydrated raison and topped with Gruyere cheese.

 

IMG_2865ii IMG_2867ii

Now for some less hydrated Mediterranean breads. This is Man’oush bi Za’atar, a quick baking flatbread with the brownish Za’atar from Aleppo (left pic, left on bread) featuring a sweet cumin, anise taste and (right on the same bread) is a za’atar from a Palestinian woman’s cooperative with that great thyme, sumac tingle of a green za’atar.

 

summer 2014ii 206ii summer 2014ii 210ii

This simple schiacciata takes advantage of these candy-like cherry tomatoes that farmers are practically giving away now. I paired it with some aged mozzarella and provolone, fresh basil and extra virgin olive oil with coarse Trapani sea salt.

 

IMG_2802ii IMG_2791ii

Above is a celery, leek and ham disc with calabrian chilies and whole roasted cumin seed.

 

IMG_2877ii IMG_2878ii

This pizza will blow your face off and send your intestines to the old folks home before puberty. I used some summer habenero’s and Calabrian chilies and made a paste with San Marzano pizza sauce and some aged mozzarella and provolone and topped with a pickled jalepeno. My customers said this is hotter than my ghost chili pie. (go figure)

 

IMG_2817ii IMG_2820iii

This is my sea salt and herb fougasse that Joel Fair and I make deep into the night. It is our customers most favorite; an airy and savory treat.

 

summer 2014ii 091ii summer 2014ii 092ii

What to do with a boatload of local okra? This time I pickled it then paired it with balsamic caramelized onion and Gruyere on this schiacciata.

 

IMG_2792ii IMG_2683iii

This fougasse I call the Purple People Eater. She is a sweet and spicy charmer with chipotle roasted onion and dried blueberry!

 

summer 2014ii 044ii summer 2014ii 066ii

Above is a mix of cashew, Cowdery Farms ‘Cherry Bomb’ chilies, cilantro and dried papaya that made this spectacular bent fougasse, (right) very popular.

 

summer 2014ii 272ii summer 2014ii 293ii

last week, I was back on the beet with 40 pounds of this purple gem so I killed it with a vegetarian schiacciata topped with fingerlings, roasted Amish Brussel sprouts and beetroot on top of Italian polenta and English Stilton.

 

IMG_2856ii IMG_2860ii

Here is a crunchy, airy ciabatta. I have been experimenting with this loaf for years and love those large, irregular cells produced from natural fermentation and a long proofing time followed by high heat.

 

IMG_2873ii IMG_2875ii

We can never forget to bake hundreds of baguettes each week. The crunch, the airy crumb and light digestibility make these a crowd pleaser. Torrey cooked these and has become a real master.

 

summer 2014ii 079ii summer 2014ii 080ii

I made a cool split batard with this loaf of dried peaches, cinnamon, pecan all nestled in local spelt milled here in town by Shagbark milling.

summer 2014ii 217ii summer 2014ii 218ii

Above is a fingerling potato disc with some quick dill pickles I made from Cowdery farms cukes, sun-dried tomato, onion, dill, Asiago and local cheddar curd.

summer 2014ii 060ii summer 2014ii 048ii

This dual-holed fougasse contains our old friend the sprouted Puy lentel, this time paired with roasted leek, bacon and roasted celery, key lime zest, cumin and key lime slices. Very Bright!

summer 2014ii 120ii summer 2014ii 125ii

Joel Fair, Torrey and I did a special event this summer called Bounty on the Bricks which was a tremendous effort by the Athens Foundation to help local food pantries. Master Chef Alfonso Constriciani and all the Professors and Chefs at Hocking College put on a great dinner featuring our Epi rolls, (above left) and some airy Fontina bombes. The event was a success with thousands of dollars donated to the pantries.

summer 2014ii 220ii summer 2014ii 289ii

On top of lots of airy breads with high hydration, I back a lot of these Afghan Snowshoe Na’an that feature, horseradish Parmigiano Reggiano, fresh dill and lemon zest.

 

IMG_2870ii IMG_2869ii

I just realized that this post is huge and I have so much other “Varmints” to highlight but I have to go…bake. I’ll leave you with a delicious ciabatta topped with Nutella and banana and a pizza box made by a customer. Remember, don’t eat that yellow snow!

summer 2014ii 303ii